THE DEEP END

Compass

Not for Beginners

If the BVI is the milk run, the Grenadines are the espresso shot. Expect 30-knot gusts, massive ocean swells between islands, and anchorages with no mooring balls.

The Wind Acceleration Zones

The islands of St. Vincent, Bequia, and Canouan are mountainous. When the trade winds hit them, they compress and accelerate around the ends of the islands. As you leave the wind shadow of St. Vincent heading south to Bequia, the wind will jump from 10 knots to 30 knots in five minutes, accompanied by an 8-foot cross swell. You must reef before you leave the lee of the island.

The Tobago Cays

This is why you come. Five uninhabited islets protected by a massive horseshoe reef. You anchor in crystal clear water with turtles. But beware:

  • Current: The current rips through the anchorage. If you jump in, trail a line behind the boat so you aren't swept away.
  • Holding: The holding is hard sand. You must back down aggressively to set the anchor.
  • Wind: The reef stops the waves, but not the wind. Expect 20+ knots screaming through the rigging all night.

Provisioning Logistics

Outside of St. Vincent (Blue Lagoon) and a decent grocery store on Bequia, provisions are scarce. Buy all your heavy goods, meats, and water before heading south to the Cays.

Reefing Decision Matrix

When crossing the Bequia Channel, base your reefs on the forecast, not the calm anchorage.

Common Mistakes

Mistake The Reality
Arriving late to Mustique Moorings are mandatory and scarce. If you arrive at 4 PM, you will be turned away and forced to sail to Canouan in the dark.
Ignoring the boat boys Local vendors in skiffs will approach you to sell ice, bread, or mooring help. Be polite, say "no thank you" firmly if you don't need them, or pay them ($5-$10) for genuine help.

Related Guides

Explore the Archives (Massive Link Expansion)